Merhaba (hello in Turkish) I forgot to mention that in addition to everything I did yesterday, one of the coolest places I visited was the underground cistern. It's essentially a cave supported by hundreds of Roman columns, capable of holding 18,000 cubic feet of water back in the days, in case of a drought or a siege. Now, there's still lots of water, but it's stocked with really fat carp (they look like they're going to explode), and thousands of spheres hanging at different heights. It looks really magical, and of course, I'll have the pictures to prove. Anyways, yesterday I tried to blow away my energy with the jam-packed crowds at the nightly streetfest in the Hippodrome. I came back to the hostel to crashed, but alas, jet-lagged an all, I had a sleepless night. Fortunately, breakfast was quaintly good - a typical Turkish breakfast consisting of fresh olives, sliced cucumber & tomatoes, a cold soft-boiled egg, cheese, and bread. What a cool, healthy alternative to the bran stuff I usually eat! Today starts off with even more drama than yesterday. I make my way to Topkapi Palace, only to make a wrong turn at the park. Some seemingly-friendly Turk approaches me and guides me to the "right" direction. I thank him and slowly follow his route, taking pictures along the way. I also notice how he always stayed only a few steps ahead and kept re-guiding me. At the end of the park, he tries to lure me to across the street, far away from the palace and to a waterfront park. I balk, put on my sunglasses, and see him waiting across the street, continuously staring at me. He definitely has bad intentions, so I walk to a nearby military checkpoint and he disappears. Making my way to the palace now, I first note that it's overpriced. $10 for the entrance fee, plus another $8 if I want to see the treasury, and plus another $8 to see the Harem (rooms). I pay up for the first two. My first surprise is that my tripod gets confiscated for the duration of my visit since security believes I'm a professional photographer and could cause unspeakable havoc. The palace is big, but not very remarkable. The treasury is stocked with priceless items - fist-sized emeralds, gold, pearls, and the infamouse 86 carat spoonmaker's diamond. It's lavish, but kind of repetitive after a while. Some of the cooler items in the museum are the religious artifacts - Joseph's turban, Moses'rod, Abraham's saucepan, St. John the Baptist's skull and arm, Muhammed's everything - sword, bow, sandals, teeth, hair, tomb dust during a renovation - you name it. Quitting the palace, I make my way over to the famous Grand Bazaar. Unfortunately, I get lost on the way, as in addition to the 4500 covered shops in the Grand Bazaar, the surrounding winding streets are stocked with stores too. So one hour later, I successfully wander into the Grand Bazaar. It's big, with fountains at all major corners for taking breaks. And it's full of souvernir stuff you have to bargain for - carpets, waterpipes, lamps, etc. Since I'm not going to buy anything at the beginning of my trip, I'm able to do a rather quick walk-by of the Grand Bazaar. Instead, I'm more interested in the nearby Egyptian Spice Bazaar. It is slightly better, pungent with the spices sold, and I pick up a few pieces of Turkish Delight there. I don't have a sweet tooth, so I can't say much about this delicacy. I can say that the street kebap I bought at lunch was really good! From the Spice Bazzar, I cross the Galata Bridge over the Bosphorus River, whilst watching many fisherman bring in the catch of the day, and make it to Istanbul's Asia side. Unfortunately, I get a little lost there again, and it takes me a while before I find the Tunel Metro - the world's oldest subway. It only has 2 stops - one on each end, and it only has one car. From the end station, I stroll up through Istanbul's flashy shopping district to Taksim Square, and take a cool wooden tram back down. It's been a hectic day, so I go back to my secret restaurant, and shoot some great photographs into the early evening. Istanbul's hectic. I kind of want to get away to somewhere simpler. So, now I'm thinking if I should catch a night bus to Selcuk? I have 2 hours to decide... ! Jesse