The petty thievery phenomena here is worse than in other places I've been to. Some guy tried distracting me while another guy made an attempt at my camera, and they tried twice even after being caught by me! I even witnessed an old guy get pickpocketed. The thief ran out just before the train doors closed. Same deal on the night train from Madrid to Barcelona. Some freaky dude entered into my cabin late at night, but I was sitting up stretching, and he backed off, pretending to wonder where the washroom was. The guy made another attempt later, but I'm a light sleeper. Other travellers I met on the streets and hostels have less fortunate tales to tell. I guess we're real targets. I've also been cheating quite a bit on my rail pass. So far, I've scored 4 free rides by altering the numbers of previously used spaces on my ticket. I changed a 4 to a 5 to a 9. The last one was a bit obvious, plus I made the change using an ink pen over ballpoint writing, but the space was never stamped, and the conductor gave me a little hell for it, but I played it off since it was too difficult for him to argue in weak English. Don't try using an erasable pen though, 'cuz the conductor know, and they do test rubs with their fingers. BARCELONA - The main market off the Rambla here is the best for filling up on fruits. Cherries and strawberries are in season now, so a 1kg bag costs only $2 Cdn. - Markets are also good to try out Tapas withouth having to head to the overly flamboyant diners on the main streets. - Barcelona's big, and kind of a pain to walk around compared to other cities I've been to. The sights aren't centred in an area. There's this tourist bus that I've seen pass by all the sights, and it's pretty frequent, and you can get on/off as much as you like. I didn't try it out, but it seems pretty worth it. MADRID This city shouldn't be underrated when compared to Barcelona just 'cuz it doesn't have a beach. I had some of my best fun here, checking out the world class museums and palaces, and a bullfight in between. Missed out on Flamenco dancing though. - The museums here are really good. The Del Prado museum's got older stuff, but I did a couple of interpretations of Las Meninas and Goya's Saturno... good collection of the newer post impressionist stuff at the Thyssen B. Museum. - A lot of good hostels are concentrated around Plaza Santa Anna, a good area for nightlife, and they're high quality, with real friendly service. You can even bargain down the price in some of them, 'cuz not many tourists can bear the heat in the summer. - The heat's kinda bad, it hit 45 Celsius by midday, but it doesn't feel as bad as Toronto right now 'cuz it's not humid. - Pollution's a little bad though. There's these boards around the city indicating the percentage of compounds in the air. - It costs me less to stay in Madrid than in Toronto (and everywhere else I've been, for that matter)! For $30 Cdn., I got a double room with ensuite shower and washroom, plus towel service, and a great view. - On the perimeter of Plaza Mayor, there's these Calamari sandwich joints which are pretty good. For $1.50 Canadian, I got a totally stuffed sandwich. The only problem is that they're really dry to eat, so get a lemon, or like me, I went to the grocery store and got some tartar sauce. Became my daily lunch. - I think Paella's overrated. I've tried it multiple times, but the rice doesn't really have a good flavour, or everywhere I've been too skimped on the seafood, and subsituted with chicken (with feathers still sticking out! ugh...) - Try to avoid this station named Bilbao. It seems to smell like raw sewage forever. The bullfight. Okay, I'm not condoning this type of sport, but it's so popular that I had to see it. It's flooded with locals, and even though there are protests, it seems like it will never be banished. It's really popular in Madrid, and there's a fight every 1-2 days. - First off, the seats in the Coliseum are just concrete steps, so my butt was getting totally cooked before some locals saved me with some newspapers. Also ended up wearing a goofy newspaper hat to block the sun. Staying out like that made my skin pretty dark. - I can't help but root for the bull. I mean, there's 3 phases, with 10 guys wearing out the bull with spears, harpoons, etc. The matador doesn't have to do much, 'cuz the bull is pretty slow by the time he comes out. He just has to play with it some more, stick a long knife down it's back, and maybe finish it off with the dagger in the head. - A bullfight is much like a baseball game, as told to me by a local. If the bull isn't running, then there's no action, and it gets pretty boring. And all six fights look pretty much the same. But, a bullfight might bring out some interesting stuff. Often, the bull does an unpredictable manouevre and hits the matador. He gets to live if that happens. I got to see the bull flip one of the armoured horses. Oh yeah, some other hosteller explained to me something I mentioned earlier. Recap: In Paris, a guy on the train walks in, shouts out a speech like he's got a bomb or something, and people give him money! Explanation: He's saying he just got released from prison, with nothing, and asks for food, money, clothing, etc. Next stop: Amsterdam